In Puerto Williams you can eat king crab every day. It’s as plentiful as canned tuna elsewhere. Colts roam the streets, along with free-range chickens, free-range cows and children. Strangers greet passers-by and the principle bar is a tilted German armor ship docked out in the harbor. Even in its desolation, it is impossibly romantic.
I bid Navarinos patience. Though it may happen in slow-motion, the world is coming to their island. For example, just this year, Puerto Williams got its first pizzeria. The crust is doughy and the cheese wilts in goopy slices, but it’s wildly popular. And as you’d expect, king crab comes on top.